Finished another skinny yarn sweater! I don’t know how long I’ve been working on this one, but I’m pretty sure at least two Christmases have passed since I started.
I followed a chart for the texture (reference below). The idea here was to make an asymmetrical front, just to do something a little different, (though similar to what I did on the purple Knifty Knitter sweater). I made one side wider than the other so the buttons would go down one side instead of down the middle, and I tried to make a flap that would hang over under the neck. Its not really staying down now, but I haven’t done blocking yet, so I think I can get that part to work out. This stitch chart was good for that since it looks nice on both sides.
I also made the bottom stripes different on one side of the front. I would say this didn’t work out fabulously, as the different stripes at the bottom really just look more like a mistake happened. In the future if I try that again, I’ll probably be sure to include many more stripes (or whatever is different), to make sure it is so obvious that it won’t look as much like a mistake.
Also, the fronts don’t seem to line up at the bottom as well, though I’m not sure why – there are the same number of rows on each piece below the stripe. Possibly an error in button placement? When putting on buttons, its best to start at the bottom, and make sure your bottoms line up. I did that, but still uneven, not sure why. Not too bothered by it. Close enough. Will wear it anyway.
There’s only one other thing I might do differently, and that’s to not use clear buttons. (Hey, I was just so excited to find this many buttons that matched each other in my jar!) Because you can see through the buttons, you can see the buttonholes. Usually you don’t see buttonholes when something is buttoned, and knit sweater buttonholes can really kind of look like jagged holes. I may try to do some hand stitching or machine sewing around the edges of the buttonholes to neaten those up since you can see them. If it bugs me. It doesn’t bug me enough to go that far yet.
How it was done: I did my self-measuring, knit a swatch to get my gauge and did my stitch math. Then started at the hip and worked up on the back piece. I used decreases on the edges to get my size right for hips, waist and bust, then bound off a few and decreased a couple to make arm holes. To make a shallow neck hole, bind off neck stitches and attach another yarn to one shoulder to keep working both shoulders at the same time on two needles.
I started one side, working up from the hip, back and forth on straight needles. I attached it partway at the hip to allow me to get it exactly the same size as the back piece (as to where decreases for the waist go and where arm holes start. I left buttonholes in this piece. Then I made the other front piece the same way, without buttonholes. Then stitches were picked up at the arm hole and sleeves were worked in the round. I didn’t bother with shoulder caps on this one, the sleeves are just tubes with decreases on the underarm side.
I wanted sleeves narrower at the wrist than my circular needle allowed, so I started working back and forth at a point below the elbow when it started to get too tight to work in the round. The ends of the sleeves were seamed when finished. This texture chart was a great one for no curling, so no need for fancy edges. Work in ends, sew on buttons, and all done!
Yarn: Colombine 99 183 0 – 50% acrylic/50% nylon. Size 5 needles
Stitch charts followed: The New Knitting Stitch Library. Lesley Stanfield. Quarto Publishing, 1992. Stripes at the hip are chart #13, pg. 28. The rest of the sweater is chart #41, pg. 36.