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Archive for the ‘round loom’ Category

For the Knifty Knitters, (or other brand of round loom users)  – A shrug or wrap!  Scroll down and see the note below about the delicateness of this garment before deciding to make one.

KKVioletShrugBack

This is done with one strand of worsted weight yarn instead of 2 strands, (this yarn is the Caron One Pounder).  This makes a garment that is looser and see-through, and has a lot of flounce, but still gives you warmth on days that are not too cold.  It has the risky delicate factor mentioned below, but it also makes a nice feminine garment.  If a Knifty Knitter is all you use, you may like the option of making a less thick garment with some swish.

How it’s made:

IMG_1876With one strand of yarn, e-wrap all pegs except one on the largest knifty knitter loom, and keep going back and forth until its long enough.  I leave that empty one because I work while watching tv, and this allows me to not accidentally connect the edges when I’m only half paying attention.

Making the shrug: Go back and forth until it reaches from one wrist to the other (drape it behind you over your shoulders to check).  Sleeves usually look best when they reach a little past the wrist as shown below, so shoot for this length.   (Make sure it’s laying flat without the loom weight stretching it to get the length right.)

VioletShrugFront A shrug is really nothing but a set of sleeves.  After it’s long enough, bind off the edge. Roll it lengthwise with the inside out, and seam with the yarn in the spots shown below.  (Pin it first and carefully try it on to make sure you get the seams a comfortable length.)

VioletShrugSeams (You might notice my seams have stuff on them and holes, that’s because I didn’t make mine into a shrug, I just pinned it into place with hair clips to show you what it looks like if you want to make one.)

Making it into a wrap:  To make it into a wrap instead of a shrug, don’t seam it, add fringe at the ends as if it were a scarf.  I would suggest making it a little longer than wrist length.  Mine is on the short side at shrug length.VioletWrapEdgesThe ends of stockinette garments tend to want to roll, and the fringe helps pull it straight, especially after you wet it and let it dry.  Using only one strand of yarn makes this garment very loose and swingy so there is less rolling.

KKVioletWrapFrontWrapped

KKVioletWrapBack

Delicateness!  Unfortunately, any time you make something that is very loosely done (skinny yarn with big needles), the big holes in it put it at risk of getting pulls.  You will have to be very careful with any garment done on a knifty knitter with only one strand of worsted weight yarn instead of the usual two.  This means hold it up if you are around jumping dogs, keep it away from the cat, don’t put it in the dryer, and hand wash it.  If it gets caught around a jean button or bra hook in the washer, it will get pulls and may be ruined.

Knifty Knitting thicker, with the usual 2 strands: You can probably make the shrug on the Knifty Knitter with the usual 2 strands of worsted yarn, but it will be thick and the sleeves will be very warm.  The wrap likewise, you can do it, but it will be a VERY thick wrap, and not have the same “hang”.  You are also more likely to have a problem with edge rolling on the sides and ends of a thicker wrap, or the sleeve ends of the shrug, so you might consider adding some purl stitches to the edges to help with that. or some crochet stitches.   Loom e-wrap stitches are the same as “twisted knit” stitches. Here is a short youtube video which shows you how to do purl stitches on a loom: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MYFKncd7iDg

What to do about pulls:  I would feel remiss if I did not include some info on repairing pulls, if they should happen.   Sadly, they never seem to end up repaired quite like the original, so the best is really to protect the garment and not let them happen, but here’s some hope if they do.

PullsRoseShrugThis is what my Rose Shrug looks like after a tryst in the washing machine.  You can see some large holes in it.  One loop gets caught on something, and a long string is pulled out.

Attempted fix #1: On the left you can see an early attempt at fixing that, just by tying a knot in the long pull on the backside and cutting it off.  It was quick, but doesn’t look right.  Many nearby stitches are pulled too tight.

Pulls1

Attempted fix #2, on the right.  Look at the anatomy of the pull (this is the back, or purl side).  Below, you see that this one long loop can be followed several rows across on both sides where that one yarn was pulled tight (the tightness ends above my finger on the left and the same on the right).

Pulls2

So, get a crochet hook and pull the long yarn back to where it came from.  First divide it in half evenly by following the yarn to the loop next door, and pulling half of it through that loop.  Now you have two loops, one loop will get pulled to loosen the left and the other will go right.

Pulls3Keep following the yarn along its tightness in both directions, pulling the length through all of its tight loops. Try to give them the same looseness that they originally had.

Pulls4The big loop will get shorter as you work it to the beginning point of the pull.

Pulls5 Here is the finished product after fix #2.  It never seems to come out looking perfect.  Perhaps with more careful trying.

There is also always the option of tacking stuff on top of pulls to hide them, such as knit or crocheted flowers or butterflies.  Depending on where the pull happens, this can wind up looking good if done in a yarn that is related or goes well with the garment.  If you make the thinner wrap, you will probably want dainty flowers or butterflies done in a thinner yarn so that it doesn’t weigh it down.

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A new Knifty Knitter pattern-free sweater, made solely on the largest round loom (the yellow one pictured below).  I made some mistakes on mine, but it all worked out okay.  So, I’ll tell you all about it so you can make yours even better.

KniftyKnitterLooms

KniftyKnitterPurpleSweaterFront

I made this one with the body all in one piece instead of separate back and fronts.  Now that I’ve done that, I’d recommend making the pieces separately, then seaming them together and adding sleeves.  Making it all in one piece may avoid needing to seam over the shoulders, but I wound up doing that anyway for support (see below) and doing it in one piece made it a lot harder because you still need to hold it up to yourself to check some things, like arm hole height for example.

Here’s the easy way.  Measure yourself in all the places indicated in the photo below, using a swatch you knitted with the same yarn on the same loom (something like 10 rows wide by 5 high is a good sized swatch to make, then you can save it and reuse to measure yourself anytime you want to loom something.)  Be sure not to stretch the swatch or your sweater will be too tight, and add a couple of stitches if you want some extra give in your garment.   Then, just make the sweater as directed in the photo, using your numbers of stitches instead of mine.  Hold the pieces up to yourself as you go to see when the various places are long enough.  I have increases and decreases for hips, waist, bust, and arm holes.  Bind off stitches for the neck hole.  For more detailed directions, from when I made earlier sweaters, and photos on how to increase and decrease, see this post:  Working Without Patterns, The Knifty Knitter – Rainbow Chakra Vest.   For more directions, and how-to on binding off, use a crochet hook as directed on the photo in this post:  Working Without Patterns:  The Knifty Knitter Round loom sweater.

KKpurpleSweater

The waist decreases, bust increases, and arm hole decreases were all done on the sides where the arms are.  The fronts should be straight on the neck side from the neck down.

Finishing the body:  After making your pieces to your own measurements, seam the shoulders and sides together.  (Seams on the inside!  Believe it or not, that’s the kind of stuff I forget! lol).  I added granny squares on the bottom of mine because I didn’t feel it was long enough.  I am impatient so I tend to go “I think its long enough!”, then quit, then wish I hadn’t.  It’s all okay though, you can always add more crochet if you are an impatient person like me.  The crochet edge also stops the curling that knit edges tend to have.  If you don’t know how to crochet granny squares, try this page, or doing a search for other pages or youtube videos to show you:  http://www.craftstylish.com/item/1437/granny-square-how-to/page/all. I used a size K hook and attached these as I went – and was surprised to see them turn out exactly the right width!  Go figure!  You can make yours all in one piece and attach them to the sweater afterward if you want more certainty in life.  That way if they are off by a little, you can always do a row of double crochet around the edge of them, or do a crochet trim, or whatever you need to fix whatever width it comes out to make it match your sweater.  Have fun being creative with it!

I also used double crochet, (same K hook), to add a few rows around the front piece edges and neck hole.  This prevents curling, made the sweater a little roomier, and gave me automatic button holes, after which buttons were sewn on the narrower side.  I had designed this sweater with one front piece wider than the other so the buttonhole side would overlap to one side over the buttons, and so there would be a flap over the top button, but you can always do equal pieces if you prefer, and put your buttons on where it will line up right on the other side.

Making the sleeves.  You can stop there if you want a vest, and if you wish, add some double crochet to the arm holes to finish it up.  If you want sleeves, measure your arm in the following places to get your number of stitches.  The sleeves start at the shoulder and are worked on the yellow loom back and forth, then seamed to the sweater, then seamed up the underside of the arm.  (I found I had measured too tightly and wished I had made my sleeves bigger.  They work, but I’ll probably like them better once I’ve worn out the sweater more and stretched them a bit.  I didn’t even seam all the way to the wrist or my hand would not have fit through it.)

KKpurpleSweaterSleeve

You’re finished!  Now, discussion of my mistakes….

KniftyKnitterPurpleSweaterBack

The way I would NOT recommend making this sweater:  Now, that way above will help you do it better, but here’s what I did, which I wouldn’t recommend.  See how my neck hole is so big?   It hangs low in the back.  That wouldn’t have happened if I had made it in separate pieces and seamed them together.  This happened because I wanted to avoid any extra seaming and made it like this:

KKpurpleSweaterWrongWay

The problem with doing it that way occurs when you hit the arm holes.  This is the inside of the back piece, (showing where I marked rows for increases or decreases so I could make the front pieces match without too much row counting).  You have to take one shoulder off of the loom if you want any hope of holding it up to yourself to see if its long enough to fit you.  If you have a definite stop point where your shoulder seam is going to go, you know that “Okay, I hold this spot right at the top of my shoulder”.  If you do it the way pictured below, you have no seam, so deciding how big to make the neck and arm holes is more of a challenge because there’s a lot of swing room in what you hold up to yourself as “the top” of the shoulder.  My decision making was a little off.  My arm holes are a bit small, and my neck hole hangs too low.  It all could have been avoided by making separate flat pieces.  KniftyKnitterPurpleSweaterShoulder

I also saved myself no pain at all, I only added extra, because I wound up adding shoulder seams anyway.  This is the inside over the shoulder area, I wound some yarn through these stitches to add support.  If you don’t have seams, because there is so much space between stitches on the yellow loom, your rows can start to pull apart as the sweater ages.  So, the seams do serve a good purpose, and that’s why I added some where there were none.

KniftyKnitterPurpleSweaterAfter

If you add fake seams the way shown above, they won’t show on the front side, its the same method you would use to work in ends.

KKpurpleSweaterShoulders

If you found this post through a search, please visit my Links page to see my other Knifty Knitter projects.  There is a “Links” tab at the top of this page, and also a link to it at the right.

Yarn:  Caron One Pound acrylic, in Deep Violet (this sweater took more than one, but not much more, so you will have most of the second one left with which to make a matching scarf or other accessory.)

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I was looking for something to do with all of the extra yarn I have, when I discovered all I’ve got is really bright stuff.  So, I made a rainbow. (I called this a chakra vest because if you google the word chakra, you will find a chart of where they are on a person, and you will see the colors in the rainbow vest also correspond to the chakra colors on the body.)  Of course, if this is too crazy bright, and you don’t want to feel quite so much like Mork, you can always make it a solid color.

This vest is made with Red Heart yarn, 2 strands of it on each peg, and the large circular ring from the Knifty Knitter set.

Measuring yourself for the number of stitches to use:  I have made a sweater before, so I used that to count the number of stitches I’d need for the right size.  (As you can see, the stitches are really large, so counting them isn’t a nightmare like with smaller stitches.)  If you don’t have any garments to use for counting, make a swatch with the same loom you will knit on, using the same yarn.  Just make a strip around 20 stitches long, around 4 inches high, and you can hold this up to yourself and count how many stitches you’ll need for each area of your body.  You can save this swatch and use it anytime you want to make something on the Knifty Knitter.  Be sure not to stretch it when you measure or your garment will stretch over you.  Here is a chart showing what I got to use as an example in the rest of this post.   This chart gives you an idea of where on yourself you need to count stitches.  For the part over the shoulder, you may want to add a border later on the neck and in each armhole (mine are big double crochet which are about an inch high each side), so you will want to take that into account when you are measuring if you will add a large border.  I also measured the length I wanted each color row to be to get the colors to line up over the chakras on the body, which made each row of color not the same number of stitches.   As you knit, you can hold it up to yourself to see where you want the length to end up.

Starting:  The large loom doesn’t have that many stitches on it, mine has 41 pegs.  So I made this vest as a front piece and a back piece, and sewed them together afterwards with seams on the sides.  I made the front piece first, using 39 stitches to start at the hips and work up (about half of the 77.  When I did the back piece I started with 38 to get my 77.)  Knit upwards going back and forth, and decrease or increase (see below) gradually as you go to get to the next required number of stitches, (change by one peg on each end, knit a row or two, then do it again to increase or decrease gradually).  Remember that you are making only one half of your garment at a time, so using my chart as an example, you don’t need to decrease 10 stitches on the front piece (the difference between 77 and 67), you only need to decrease 5 on the front piece, then do the same later when you make the back.  Keep good notes on exactly what you do and what rows you decrease or increase on, so you can make the front and back match exactly.

The stitches are twisted, so not that easy to count rows with on the front.  So I count the bars between the stitches on the back when I count rows.  There are 3 rows of green/yellow mix in this photo, and 7 rows of yellow.

INCREASING  This is one way to do it, not the only way.  Do whatever works for you.  Here is an example of one way to increase.

The stitches above end on the 3rd peg from the yarn holder.  Below, a stitch was added on the end by wrapping the next peg when doing the e-wraps for the next row.  There is nothing to flip off of that peg yet, but when you wrap and do the following row there will be.  This increases this edge of the project by one stitch.

DECREASING  Again, not the only way, but here in example of one way to decrease.

Above you see the stitches end on the 3rd peg from the yarn holder.  Below, the stitch on the end was flipped onto the peg next to it (4th peg from holder).  Photo below that, flip the stitch over as you normally would.  You’re done, wrap the next row as usual, using all the pegs with yarn on them.  You have decreased this end of the project by one stitch.

Work your way up, doing increases and decreases as needed until you get to where you want the armholes to be.  I have made my neck hole start at the same row as my arm holes on the front piece, so this means I had to start the neck by making a hole in the middle of the front, and also decrease on each end by a LOT at once to make it get out of the way of the arms quickly.  If you look at my chart, I had the bust stitch total number at 68, this means by the time I reached this point on the front piece, I had half, or 34 stitches on my loom for the front piece.  So for the front, I wanted to end up with 7 over each shoulder, and 6 for the neck (this 6 will be decreased out as you do the neck hole, discussed below).  7+7+6=20 stitches to stay on the loom.  34 total now minus that 20 that I want = 14  –>  That means I had 14 extra stitches, or 7 on each end that had to be gotten rid of for the arm holes to leave me with 7 stitches over each shoulder.  Basically, decrease the two ends like crazy within a couple of rows.  Don’t be shy about decreasing one peg, then another, then another, then starting the wrapping and doing the row, then doing the same on the next row.

The neck hole for the front piece:

For the front piece, I made a rounded v neck.   This was done as shown below.  The neck should wind up in the middle of the front piece, so on the 2 stitches that are in the middle of where you want the front total number to end up, do your wrapping very loose over those 2 pegs.  You are about to stretch this yarn as far as it will go.

Then take the yarn off of each of those 2 pegs and put it on the peg next to it, moving outward.  (This is what really stretches it, and if your loops weren’t loose enough, this is going to be hard to do, you may have to do one first, then the other instead of both at once). Then start wrapping the pegs on one side (over one shoulder), only back and forth.  You’ll cut the yarn when finished and do the other shoulder afterward.  You can then decrease both ends of each shoulder piece, the arm hole side and the neck hole side – there remains after this 2 more to decrease on the neck hole end (if you used 6 as your number).

This will look in the first row or two like it leaves a huge hole at the neck where the 2 knit rows divide for the neck, but here is what mine looks like in the front after it was done, with double crochet border.  It does split, but its not that bad.

Neck hole for the back piece:  For the back, I didn’t want the rounded v neck, but something that would go up higher and fairly straight across.  I bound off 6 stitches on the bottom of the neck hole here.  See where that bigger hole is?  That was the first stitch to lay down with the rest going to the right.  So, you can choose your method of making holes in your garments, this is what I did and that’s what happened.  I don’t mind it, but if you like your clothes to look perfect, you may have to invent another method, perhaps removing your 6 loops from the pegs and running yarn through them or something like that.

Here is a close up of the back, and a chart for how the stitches were bound off straight across, which was done with a crochet hook. (These went left, mine go right on the sweater.)

Seaming up the sides and over the shoulders.  The thing I found worked best for the sides is pulling yarn through both sides with a crochet hook, then pulling more yarn through making another loop, pulling it also through the first loop.  (This looks a lot like the photo above, you get a crochet chain laying down over the seam.)  You can of course do your seams any old way you like.  For over the shoulders, you can seam up any old way, or do a grafting stitch to make the tops of the shoulders appear seamless (I did not use this method here, but have before for non-Knifty Knit sweaters.)  For tips on how to do the grafting stitch, see this Knitting Daily page, a couple of paragraphs down, the “shortcut chant” works very well and makes this stitch easy to do:  Knitting Daily: Finishing Tip: For Those Who Hate the Kitchener Stitch.  You will have to take your stitches off of the pegs and put them on knitting needles to do the grafting.

Border:  I did double crochet using the same 2 strands of yarn and a size K crochet hook on all borders. I did a little more than 1 dc per stitch at the hips, but it looks like 1 dc per 1 stitch would have come out about right.

If you found this post because you were looking for things to do with a Knifty Knitter round loom, you may also be interested in my long sleeve sweater post.

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The Knifty Knitter comes with 4 round looms.  I wondered if the smallest one could make a sock.  I have narrow feet, so I doubted it was going to work for me, but I gave it a shot anyway.  I used Red Heart Super Saver Seagrass yarn.

The shoe is about what you'd call an A width.  This gives you an idea how big this sock was.

The shoe is about what you’d call an A width. This gives you an idea how big this sock was.

I used 3 strands of yarn at once in an attempt to make it thick enough to make a mega-thick winter sock.  As you can see, this wasn’t going to work for me, it was still too big – but all is not lost.  It may be just the thing to make quick socks for those who have a foot width of E to EEE.  If you used wool yarn, you can also make a 1 strand sock with it and felt it to your size for a super warm sock.

If I fold it up, it can now be a preemie hat, or a hat for a doll.  I believe with 3 strands, it is too thick for a regular baby sized hat.

KKBlueRing3yarnShoeHat

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Whipped up some sock loom socks with the leftover Red Heart “Fall” color yarn from the card weaving project.  They came out neater than I expected because all the reds stuck to one side of the loom and all the greens stuck to the other side.

AutumnSocks

I guess that would be hard to repeat, unless you had the exact same loom (which is DA looms, small gauge, “youth” size – this works for narrow feet). The knifty knitter picking tool can be used for these looms (small and fine gauge) and you can usually pick up that tool alone for a dollar or two at stores that sell the knifty knitter.

I like making socks on these looms, the toe and heel are so much faster to do.  Less finger cramping!  Basically to make a toe cup, you just put yarn around half of the pegs on one side of the loom, do 2-4 rows back and forth, then decrease every other row by using less pegs (leaving one off of each end).  Then once you get to “across the toes” seam length, increase back up again, adding a peg to each end every other row until you’re back to half the loom. Do 2 rows that are half loom back and forth.  At this point, you can take the first row you did and stretch it over to the other half of the pegs, then just start working all of the pegs and make your sock tube.  The heel is done the same way, you ignore half the pegs (I push the yarn on those all the way to the bottom, and leave it half mast on the pegs I’m working with so I can tell the difference).  Make the heel on the other half of the pegs by doing 2 rows, then decreasing every other row (leaving a peg off of each end) until you have 4 or 5 pegs left, and then increasing back up every other row in the same way.  The heel holes you get are easily fixed because you just flip a piece of yarn from the other side of a hole over the nearest peg and flip the peg yarn over it. Hole sealed.  Its much faster than needles.

Super fast socks

Super fast loom socks, made on “youth” loom, “small” gauge

I’d say the only disadvantage to socks on a loom is that it can be complicated to figure out what size loom to buy for your feet and yarn size (let me help with that).  And that you really need to make sure to do your last row very loosely, or, like any bind off row, it will be too tight to get the sock on your foot.

So, for Decor Accent looms (the only sock looms I’ve got, so all I’m familiar with) – the Small gauge will make socks like the ones you see above with worsted weight yarn.  Fine gauge can also use worsted, or finer weight yarn.  If worsted, it will make a “thicker” sock (meaning, you see how you can see my foot through the sock above?  You won’t get that if you use a “fine” loom and worsted yarn, the sock will be thicker). Extra fine is for sock yarn, I do not have an extra fine loom so haven’t tried it.  Fine doesn’t work with sock yarn, it’s too flouncy. As you can tell by now, exact fit will depend on the yarn used, but in general – Adults: Measure around the ball of your foot (meaning the part behind your toes.  If its 8 inches, get the “youth” sock loom, 8 and a half, “L adult“, 9 to 9 and a half, “XL adult“, 10 to 10 and a half is XXL adultFor kids, 5 inches is the infant loom, 6 inches is toddler, and 7 inches is the child loom.

I also started making a sock with 2 strands worsted yarn and the smallest loom in the Knifty Knitter set, (which is a loom for an infant hat), but this was coming out extremely large.  I think it would work if you either needed really big socks or slippers (someone 7 feet tall maybe, or with extremely wide feet) or if you used wool yarn and felted it smaller. It would be very warm!

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You can make a sweater on a Knifty Knitter round loom set.  (Of course you can also use the straight looms they sell, but say you bought the round set just to learn how to use it to see if you’d like it – well, those are really all you need).

A sweater made on a Knifty Knitter round loom set

A sweater made on a Knifty Knitter round loom set

If you’ve already followed the instructions that came with the loom set to learn how to use it and you made the hat, not only do you already know most all you need to know, but you can use the hat to measure yourself for anything else you want to make.  Just hold it up to yourself systematically and count the rows around whatever body part you need to know about.  This is the number of stitches you need to be on your loom when you’re making that part.  Be very careful to not skip any space on yourself as you move the hat.  You can of course also make a swatch to use for this, a longer swatch is more helpful than a shorter one – just make one 10 or more stitches long and 5 stitches high, then you can save it for measuring anytime you plan to loom.  Make sure to leave yourself a little room, a sweater that is a little big is better than one that is too small.  You will likely wear this over another shirt because it is so thick (you may get very hot if you can’t take it off in heated buildings) so you will want a little room in it.

It may not sound that easy, counting stitches to get to your size, but the stitches made by these looms are HUGE, and you use either very bulky yarn or 2 strands of something worsted thickness, so counting is really quite easy. These are the counts for the first Knifty Knitter sweater I made.  These counts should not be used for you, they are just to illustrate where on yourself you need to measure.

KKAquaSweaterMapYou can see that I did the back straight, ignoring the need for an underarm area, (I wish I could remember why) which I later found I needed.  That’s why the optional under arm filler is there.  I whipped up some quick sides for the under arm area.  You can avoid doing sides by simply adding the needed area for your underarm to both your back and front pieces.

First you’ll make the back piece, you can use the biggest loom (yellow one in my set).  It has 41 pegs, so as long as your back piece is 41 or less, you can just make the whole piece at once.  If its more than 41, you may want to do your back in two halves.  You make a flat back piece by going back and forth on the loom and not connecting it into a circle.  I used 2 strands of Red Heart worsted weight yarn for mine (one aqua, one mint green).  I started at the hips and worked up.  If you don’t want the side pieces that allow you to work in a straight line, you will have to account for that in your measuring, and you will need to decrease once you hit the arm pit area to make an armhole.  Picture this, you’re going back and forth in rows, knitting your back piece on your loom – to decrease you take a loop off of a peg on the end of your knitting (the one closest to the arm hole), and flip that loop onto the peg next to it (which has the second from the end on it).  You now have 2 loops on that peg.  Then, you can do the decrease one of two ways, whichever you prefer.  1.  Flip the bottom loop yarn over the top one and off the peg, you’re done.  Or 2.  Wrap and work the next row as normal (after you’ve moved that end stitch to the 2nd peg), and when you get to that peg with the 2 loops on it, wrap that peg and lift both loops over and off (leaving the wrapped yarn on as usual).  It is essentially a “knit 2 together”. and you’ve decreased one stitch.  Do it again and you’ve decreased 2, and you are well on  your way to shaping the armhole.  Then just knit the next row as normal, knitting all occupied pegs.  Just decrease until you’ve got the count you need for the part that stretches across your back near the neck (the top “32” on my chart).

(Note:  Since this post I have done another one of a vest with pictures demonstrating increasing and decreasing on the Knifty Knitter here.

This is the under arm side piece, done with 2 strands of mint green and attached after the fronts and back were done.  You can see that using this piece allows you to avoid increases and decreases and work in a straight line until you get to the neck.  A lighter mint green was used with aqua for the lower back, and regular mint with aqua at the top.

This is the under arm side piece, done with 2 strands of mint green and attached after the fronts and back were done. You can see that using this piece allows you to avoid increases and decreases and work the back in a straight line until you get to the neck. A lighter mint green was used with aqua for the lower back, and regular mint with aqua at the top.

When you want to shape the neck hole in the back, you don’t need to leave off many of those huge stitches.  I bound off 9 of my stitches in the middle, (I think 8 would have done it too) leaving on the pegs the two ends which are the count that I would need for the shoulder flaps (which was 11, the amount I’d need to meet the shoulder flaps in the front and match them)..  Bind off the neck stitches the way you normally bind off knitting, taking just those stitches off the pegs as you go.  Then you just work on your back shoulder flaps, going back and forth on each flap until its big enough – hold it up to yourself and see.

KKloomBindingOff

Work the front pieces in the same manner, from the bottom up.  Straight if you use a side piece, or decreasing at the armpit if you didn’t use a side piece.  (Remember that if you decrease to hold the sweater up to you before you start so you decrease on the right side (you don’t want two left fronts!).  Makes sure also that you’re making all of your pieces the same length so that when you stitch them all together, they line up at the bottom.

For the sleeves, I used the 2nd smallest loom (red in my set), which has 31 pegs, starting at the shoulder.  I did not do a shoulder cap, just made a tube.  I worked in a circle (connected it) until the point where I wanted to decrease, then flipped a loop over another as described above under decreasing, and started working back and forth.  The opening can be seamed later and  located under the arm to hide it more.  This photo shows what happens when you change from working in the round to working back and forth.  It changes the shape of your stitches.  I liked this effect as I felt it added interest to the sweater.  If you don’t want this, do your sleeve back and forth down the whole length and stitch it up at the end.

KKAquaSweaterSleeve

Finishing: I didn’t worry about curling, and all the stitches are stockinette. (You can do purl stitches on the loom, search online and you will find videos showing you how).  So to help with some of the curling and add interest to the sweater, I did double crochet on all edges (around the wrists, around the neck and down the front, and at the bottom).  I wish I could tell you what hook I used to do that, but my hook has no size written on it.  20 years ago, it used to be the only giant hook I could find, plastic and light blue.  I’m guessing its a size O or P or something.  The crochet also gives you buttonholes, so I got some big buttons that were long in one direction so they would stay closed.

KKAquaSweater2

I like this sweater, its thick enough to use as a light coat in milder weather, and it was FAST to make with these big ol’ stitches.  Have fun designing your own original sweater!

If you found this post through a search, please visit my “Links” page to see other Knifty Knitter projects.  There is a “Links” tab at the top of this page, and also a link to it at the right.

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