There are some BEAUtiful pastel yarns in the baby color section. I made this sweater using Caron Simply Soft in Baby Brights Ombre. I’ve used this color before on an entrelac scarf and people always compliment it.
The color pattern varied with how many stitches I used per row, but seemed to mostly want to make stripes.
My mistake: I learned something doing this. It came out a bit short. Not so short I can’t wear it, but shorter than it was when I held it up to myself and decided it was the right length from the hip to start the armholes. This is why you see a bulge at the waist, that was supposed to be a bulge for the hip. (It’s a little weirdly lumpy, but I’ll still wear it.) What went wrong was that I overestimated how big I’d make the armholes, and made them pretty tight. I shot for an 8″ armhole, (measured flat on one side from middle of the armpit to over the shoulder), and this turned out to fit, but it was small and effected the sweater length. From now on I will not do armholes as small as that.
This picture is probably closer to representing the colors on this yarn. Every pastel color of the rainbow except green.
How it was made:
I calculated my needed gauge for hips, waist and bust. I’ve used this yarn before so I already had my # of stitches per inch. I cast on in the round at the hip and worked upwards in a tube, increasing or decreasing as needed to reach my numbers. I tried a knit/purl texture chart for the bottom edge, but didn’t wind up liking it. The variation in color pretty much hid the textured pattern so you can’t even really see what it is, and it looks a bit messy. Ribbing /garter /or seed stitch would have done the trick to prevent curling and probably looked nicer.
I divided front and back for the armholes and continued working upward (first the back piece then the front piece). I bound off the correct # of stitches for the neck in the back and made it shallow, (just a couple of rows from the tops of the shoulders), and kept an equal # of stitches over each shoulder. Write down how many so you don’t have figure out what that number was when you make the front to make the front shoulder stitch number equal the back number. The front neck hole I bound off the same way, but made it a little deeper. Then I did double crochet around the neck hole to make it look nice. I did a pretty small opening to have the sweater up around the neck so it would be warm … and I almost messed this up! I can fit my head through this neck hole, but just barely! Make sure you don’t make your neck hole too small to fit your head through, or you can’t wear your sweater.
Sleeves with a shoulder cap: I did something different this time. I copied a pattern, but in the reverse direction. I used the sleeve pattern of a sweater I made by calculating their number of inches they used for each part of the sleeve, then calculating my needed number of stitches to achieve this, then doing it all in reverse of the direction of the pattern, which was made from wrist to shoulder, (I do like to make things difficult, don’t I). I did have a reason – I like to make mine from shoulder to wrist, because I can attach the sleeve after I’ve made a few inches of it, then accurately get a reading on length when I put on the sweater.
The shoulder cap part was about 6 and 3/4 inches high (from cast on to the widest part of the sleeve), and the widths had to be calculated with my gauge to come out like this. Increase or decrease on both ends equally to make it come out a symmetrical piece. To get the width in inches for the lower part of the sleeve, measure your arm around the elbow and around the wrist, (add room to the measuring tape for a less tight sleeve).
I see by this photo I did pretty thick seams over the shoulders. I grabbed 2 strands of yarn from both pieces, the shoulder and the sleeve, making a 4 strand thick seam, (plus more for seaming yarn). I probably could have grabbed only 1 piece of yarn from each piece to make it look better, but I like things bolted down and secure, so there it is.
Caron Simply Soft, Baby Brights Ombre. Needles: size 8. Gauge: 4.5 stitches =1 inch