Whipped up some sock loom socks with the leftover Red Heart “Fall” color yarn from the card weaving project. They came out neater than I expected because all the reds stuck to one side of the loom and all the greens stuck to the other side.
I guess that would be hard to repeat, unless you had the exact same loom (which is DA looms, small gauge, “youth” size – this works for narrow feet). The knifty knitter picking tool can be used for these looms (small and fine gauge) and you can usually pick up that tool alone for a dollar or two at stores that sell the knifty knitter.
I like making socks on these looms, the toe and heel are so much faster to do. Less finger cramping! Basically to make a toe cup, you just put yarn around half of the pegs on one side of the loom, do 2-4 rows back and forth, then decrease every other row by using less pegs (leaving one off of each end). Then once you get to “across the toes” seam length, increase back up again, adding a peg to each end every other row until you’re back to half the loom. Do 2 rows that are half loom back and forth. At this point, you can take the first row you did and stretch it over to the other half of the pegs, then just start working all of the pegs and make your sock tube. The heel is done the same way, you ignore half the pegs (I push the yarn on those all the way to the bottom, and leave it half mast on the pegs I’m working with so I can tell the difference). Make the heel on the other half of the pegs by doing 2 rows, then decreasing every other row (leaving a peg off of each end) until you have 4 or 5 pegs left, and then increasing back up every other row in the same way. The heel holes you get are easily fixed because you just flip a piece of yarn from the other side of a hole over the nearest peg and flip the peg yarn over it. Hole sealed. Its much faster than needles.
I’d say the only disadvantage to socks on a loom is that it can be complicated to figure out what size loom to buy for your feet and yarn size (let me help with that). And that you really need to make sure to do your last row very loosely, or, like any bind off row, it will be too tight to get the sock on your foot.
So, for Decor Accent looms (the only sock looms I’ve got, so all I’m familiar with) – the Small gauge will make socks like the ones you see above with worsted weight yarn. Fine gauge can also use worsted, or finer weight yarn. If worsted, it will make a “thicker” sock (meaning, you see how you can see my foot through the sock above? You won’t get that if you use a “fine” loom and worsted yarn, the sock will be thicker). Extra fine is for sock yarn, I do not have an extra fine loom so haven’t tried it. Fine doesn’t work with sock yarn, it’s too flouncy. As you can tell by now, exact fit will depend on the yarn used, but in general – Adults: Measure around the ball of your foot (meaning the part behind your toes. If its 8 inches, get the “youth” sock loom, 8 and a half, “L adult“, 9 to 9 and a half, “XL adult“, 10 to 10 and a half is XXL adult. For kids, 5 inches is the infant loom, 6 inches is toddler, and 7 inches is the child loom.
I also started making a sock with 2 strands worsted yarn and the smallest loom in the Knifty Knitter set, (which is a loom for an infant hat), but this was coming out extremely large. I think it would work if you either needed really big socks or slippers (someone 7 feet tall maybe, or with extremely wide feet) or if you used wool yarn and felted it smaller. It would be very warm!