Archive for December, 2009

This purse is very easy and quick to make.   I followed charts to decorate the body of the bag and the flap that covers the opening (see references below), but otherwise, its just two rectangles or squares, stitched together at the sides and bottom.  If you ever don’t want to follow charts, you can always come up with designs of your own too.  Draw a grid of squares or buy some graph paper and see what you can make.  These are just knit/purl variations, no cables or holes.  Have fun!


The top (the opening part of the purse) of each rectangle was done in knit 2 purl 2 ribbing so a ribbon could be threaded through them – over the purl rows and under the knit rows.  This is what closes the purse.  The ribbon is just anything you want, it can be i-cord, a strap made of chain, then single crochet, whatever would make you happy.  Embroidery floss was used for the tassels.  Then a flap was made by picking up stitches on the back rectangle, right below where the ribbing starts to make another flat rectangle.  Garter stitch was done on the edges outside the design to prevent rolling.

The ribbon is pulled tight to close the purse.  It can either be tied in a bow or just left at a half knot for easy opening.

The ribbon is pulled tight to close the purse. It can either be tied in a bow or just left at a half knot for easy opening.

You can use anything you want for the strap, i-cord, etc.  This strap was knitted longways (not back and forth shortways like i-cord) so this made judging length difficult, which is why I ended up with a too long strap and had to tie some knots in it to shorten it.  Be aware that the weight of your purse may pull the strap longer than you intended. A cloth sac was sewn and added to the inside (open at the top, no zipper on this one) to keep things from falling through the knitting.

Chart References:

Both the chart for the body and the one for the flap came from The New Knitting Stitch Library. Lesley Stanfield. Quarto Publishing, 1992.  Body: Chart #38, page 35.   Flap: Chart #58, page 41, with garter stitch added to edges to prevent rolling.


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Whipped up some sock loom socks with the leftover Red Heart “Fall” color yarn from the card weaving project.  They came out neater than I expected because all the reds stuck to one side of the loom and all the greens stuck to the other side.


I guess that would be hard to repeat, unless you had the exact same loom (which is DA looms, small gauge, “youth” size – this works for narrow feet). The knifty knitter picking tool can be used for these looms (small and fine gauge) and you can usually pick up that tool alone for a dollar or two at stores that sell the knifty knitter.

I like making socks on these looms, the toe and heel are so much faster to do.  Less finger cramping!  Basically to make a toe cup, you just put yarn around half of the pegs on one side of the loom, do 2-4 rows back and forth, then decrease every other row by using less pegs (leaving one off of each end).  Then once you get to “across the toes” seam length, increase back up again, adding a peg to each end every other row until you’re back to half the loom. Do 2 rows that are half loom back and forth.  At this point, you can take the first row you did and stretch it over to the other half of the pegs, then just start working all of the pegs and make your sock tube.  The heel is done the same way, you ignore half the pegs (I push the yarn on those all the way to the bottom, and leave it half mast on the pegs I’m working with so I can tell the difference).  Make the heel on the other half of the pegs by doing 2 rows, then decreasing every other row (leaving a peg off of each end) until you have 4 or 5 pegs left, and then increasing back up every other row in the same way.  The heel holes you get are easily fixed because you just flip a piece of yarn from the other side of a hole over the nearest peg and flip the peg yarn over it. Hole sealed.  Its much faster than needles.

Super fast socks

Super fast loom socks, made on “youth” loom, “small” gauge

I’d say the only disadvantage to socks on a loom is that it can be complicated to figure out what size loom to buy for your feet and yarn size (let me help with that).  And that you really need to make sure to do your last row very loosely, or, like any bind off row, it will be too tight to get the sock on your foot.

So, for Decor Accent looms (the only sock looms I’ve got, so all I’m familiar with) – the Small gauge will make socks like the ones you see above with worsted weight yarn.  Fine gauge can also use worsted, or finer weight yarn.  If worsted, it will make a “thicker” sock (meaning, you see how you can see my foot through the sock above?  You won’t get that if you use a “fine” loom and worsted yarn, the sock will be thicker). Extra fine is for sock yarn, I do not have an extra fine loom so haven’t tried it.  Fine doesn’t work with sock yarn, it’s too flouncy. As you can tell by now, exact fit will depend on the yarn used, but in general – Adults: Measure around the ball of your foot (meaning the part behind your toes.  If its 8 inches, get the “youth” sock loom, 8 and a half, “L adult“, 9 to 9 and a half, “XL adult“, 10 to 10 and a half is XXL adultFor kids, 5 inches is the infant loom, 6 inches is toddler, and 7 inches is the child loom.

I also started making a sock with 2 strands worsted yarn and the smallest loom in the Knifty Knitter set, (which is a loom for an infant hat), but this was coming out extremely large.  I think it would work if you either needed really big socks or slippers (someone 7 feet tall maybe, or with extremely wide feet) or if you used wool yarn and felted it smaller. It would be very warm!

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The purse is finally done, the one I made the card weaving strap for! :mrgreen:


This purse was knitted front flap first, in a back and forth rectangle, then a row was purled to make the bottom into a fold.  The bottom was done straight stockinette, then another purl row was put on the stockinette side for the fold in the back.  The back was then knitted with more designs from a design chart book. The sides were crocheted upwards to attach the back to the front piece and make it a rectangular shaped purse, and yarn was used to attach the ends of the card weaving strap I made in the earlier card weaving post.


A zipper bag was made to go inside it for strength and security, and hand sewn in.  Ideally, I had planned to get a zipper the same length as the top opening, but they only had one length of black zipper at the store I went to, so I wound up sewing the sides of the top together to make up for it.  C’est la vie.  (I did a post on how to make a zipper bag to put inside a purse later, to see that, click here.)


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