This sweater was also crocheted, again using Red Heart yarn (its just so inexpensive I found myself with a huge stash – so I made it my business to work through it and get it off the shelf this winter), and a size K hook.
This one was going to be a poncho, but after working a flat, rectangular section -which you can now identify as the entire front of the sweater- I realized it would be too thick to hang right as a poncho and would wind up looking stiff and sack-like. I held it up to myself and realized it could be turned into a sweater that was crocheted longways (each row going back and forth from neck to hips). I had been going across the rows in a wave pattern (see below for chart info), so all I had to do now to make it a sweater was add shorter rows for under the arms (from hips to under-arm) and then make the back exactly the same as the front (a rectangle). So, this sweater was worked around the body in a sideways direction. It really is like just making two tiny blankets which are rectangles. The sides of the rectangle are straight and make a straight row around the hips, and a straight flat neckline.
Leaving the side straight gives you an almost off the shoulder neck hole, you just join your “blankets” at the very corners on top of the shoulders, and you’ll have a very square vest with armholes. That’s why after the fact I did some double crochet strips over the tops of the shoulders, because leaving it that way may have let the shoulders slip off. Not only would that be annoying, but not very warm either.
After the body is made into a vest, just make tubes longways for sleeves. You can either make them alone and attach them later, or attach as you go (attaching each row to the arm hole as you go). You will need to do a few rows (preferably under the arm where they’re more hidden) that are shorter to make the sleeve bigger at the shoulder. In other words, some rows will be started at the shoulder, and only worked partway down the sleeve, then reversed and worked back up to the shoulder. Most rows, especially those on top of the sleeve, will go all the way from shoulder to wrist. Keep wrapping it around your arm and just do what seems logical to make it fit. To blend your shorter rows, you can taper them at the end by doing shorter and shorter stitches (if you were doing double crochet, do a couple of single crochet, then some loop lifts with no stitch at all, then turn). If you do a decorative pattern, such as one row of holes every few rows like I did, you will have to try to just make your sleeves where the holes are even numbers of rows apart. The tapering will make that more challenging, but just put the holes where it looks like holes should go. This is the intuitive part of intuitive crochet – relax and go with the flow! My sleeves were made too long and rolled up on the end.
Yarn: Red Heart, color 0886 Blue. (I lost the tag for the light blue, that is the darker blue).
Waves chart: The Crochet Stitch Bible. Betty Barnden. Quarto Inc. 2004. pg. 184. I left holes in some rows by chaining 1 instead of crocheting every other stitch.